Setting Up an Aquarium Properly | Design | Examples | Ideas | Pictures | Beginners | Pros | Setup |

How to Set Up and Design an Aquarium ᐅ Top 4 Examples & Ideas (with Pictures)

There are many reasons to get an aquarium—maybe you’re looking for a stylish living room decoration, low-maintenance pets, a way to relax amid a stressful daily routine, or you’re simply curious about a new hobby. No matter what your motivation is: We at Aqua Reptil World want to help you take your first steps and are happy to guide you on your journey as an aquarist. From a beginner’s aquarium to an elaborately designed aquascape or a cool nanoCube, you’ll find detailed instructions and practical tips here on how to set up and equip your new aquarium. Our shop offers everything you need, whether it’s a low-maintenance freshwater aquarium or a more elaborate saltwater tank. Many different examples will provide you with inspiration and ideas for your new hobby—welcome to the fascinating world of aquatics!

Planning Your Aquarium Setup

Fill a glass with water, put a fish in it, and you’re good to go—right? Setting up an aquarium isn’t quite that simple. At least not if you want to ensure your fish and other inhabitants have a species-appropriate life and you yourself can enjoy your aquarium for years to come. To plan your first aquarium, you need to consider three factors that will determine everything else:

1. How big can and should the aquarium be?
2. What kinds of fish do you want to keep? The fish species you choose depend on the size of the tank.
3. How much time do you want to invest in maintaining your aquarium?

Whether you install a structural back panel inside the aquarium or attach a back panel film to the outside is largely a matter of personal taste. Depending on your fish’s needs and where they come from, you can set up your aquarium with hardscape (such as rocks, stones, or driftwood) and plants. Before you start setting up and decorating, it’s best to get inspiration from reference books, at an aquarium store, or in this article.
Important: Once you’ve chosen a location for your aquarium, you can’t move it later. You can, however, change the setup as often as you like, as long as you keep your fish’s needs in mind.

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Popular Aquarium Fish—Who’s Moving In? 

An empty tank with a little sand on the bottom might look minimalistically simple, but it probably won’t be enough for most aquarists. Moreover, it doesn’t provide a species-appropriate environment for the fish—they need variety, hiding spots, and quiet areas, as well as space to swim freely. When setting up your aquarium, you should therefore base your decisions not only on your own preferences but, above all, on the needs of its inhabitants. It goes without saying that you must first decide which fish and plants you want to keep. The interior design must then be selected and arranged accordingly. The requirements of different fish species and other underwater inhabitants vary enormously, depending on their natural habitat. African cichlids, for example, thrive in a Malawi-style tank with rocks and few plants (since they eat everything except Anubias and Cryptocoryne); tetras prefer dense seagrass meadows; catfish, on the other hand, need loose substrate that they can dig through.

For your first aquarium, you should start with fish that have no special requirements regarding water quality or the company of other fish—that’s why they’re also called community fish. Limit yourself to a few fish species that don’t grow too large. In addition to sociable guppies, dwarf cichlids, and tetras, you can also keep individual barbs in a community tank. Bitterling barbs and betta fish are also suitable for beginners and enjoy company, but they must not be kept with other fish of their own species.

A few snails and catfish are also good choices as a base population to keep algae in check. Shrimp and crabs can be added as well, provided they are compatible with the fish population. An exciting yet low-maintenance aquatic pet is the axolotl, a prehistoric salamander species from Mexico that remains in its larval stage for life and gets along well with guppies. Small aquatic turtles also look very cute in an aquarium, but they need plenty of space and a dry land area, which is best provided in what’s known as a paludarium. 

Setting Up a Saltwater Aquarium vs. a Freshwater Aquarium

Fish live in water. But water can provide very different habitats. The biggest and most obvious difference is between freshwater (our drinking water) and saltwater. The inhabitants of these two environments have adapted to the water’s salinity and have specialized to it—both animals and plants, including corals. Exceptions include inhabitants of brackish water zones, which live in the estuaries of large rivers in a mixture of salt and fresh water, and some migratory fish species such as eels and salmon. What this means for your aquarium: The decision between a saltwater aquarium and a freshwater aquarium is the first one you’ll need to make.

A freshwater aquarium is the perfect home for fish from rivers and lakes. The biodiversity here is surprisingly vast: in addition to cichlids from Africa, angelfish, and discus cichlids from the South American rainforest, you can keep colorful betta fish from Southeast Asia, cute pea pufferfish and dwarf shrimp, exotic axolotl salamanders, or colorful box snails. Depending on the fish’s natural habitat, a cold-water aquarium—which doesn’t require additional heating—may suffice, while other species prefer warmer temperatures up to 30° Celsius. The basic setup for a freshwater aquarium is relatively inexpensive and simple, though there’s no limit to how far you can take your hobby.

The fascinatingly shaped coral reefs with their brightly colored inhabitants—which you’re familiar with from the zoo—look fantastic—but a saltwater tank is far more demanding to maintain than a freshwater tank. If you want to set up a saltwater aquarium, in addition to the basic technical equipment for freshwater aquariums, you’ll also need a powerful flow pump, a reverse osmosis system, a protein skimmer, and, of course, a salinity meter (known as a hydrometer). The lighting also needs to be much stronger, since corals require a lot of light to grow. Saltwater tanks should also be as large as possible and, of course, must contain saltwater, which you’ll need to prepare yourself before filling the tank. While smaller saltwater tanks and even nanoCubes with saltwater are technically feasible these days, However, a tank with a larger water volume is significantly easier to maintain, especially with saltwater. 
The most important difference from a freshwater aquarium is the “live rock,” which, with its microorganisms, algae, and other small organisms, ensures the ecological balance in the tank and isn’t actually rock at all, but consists of coral skeletons, mussel shells, and other organic materials.

The Right Aquarium 

There’s no such thing as the perfect aquarium—the needs of the various inhabitants are too different, as are the expectations of aquarists. How you can design the right aquarium for your needs and purposes depends on at least two factors:

• Location: Where do you have space for an aquarium?
• Type of fish: Do you have a favorite? The size of your fish population depends on this, and in turn, the minimum size of the tank.
• Freshwater or saltwater aquarium? While small freshwater nanoCubes can be set up with as little as 30 liters, a saltwater tank requires at least 300 to 400 liters.

For a beginner’s aquarium, a size of at least 60x30x30 cm is recommended (which corresponds to about 54 to 60 liters of water); the standard is a side length of 120 cm. In general, you should choose a tank that’s as deep as possible to make setting it up easier; however, it shouldn’t be too tall, so that the lighting reaches all the way to the bottom. These are the most common sizes for rectangular aquariums:

Calculator: Calculate
the size of the aquarium The liter specifications for aquariums in specialty stores refer to the net volume of the tank. However, once it is filled with sand, gravel, rocks, and other decorations, there is far less space left for water and fish. The exact calculation of an aquarium’s water requirements is therefore done in 3 steps:

Finally, you’ll need to estimate how much volume the decorative items take up. If you want to know this exactly beforehand, you can use a bucket with a measuring scale to determine how much water they displace.

When it comes to aquarium size, the same rule applies: the bigger, the better. The more water your aquarium holds, the easier it is to keep clean. That may sound paradoxical, but it’s true: water parameters remain more stable, and you’ll have fewer problems with algae or other pests. Plus, with more space, you naturally have more room for creativity and can combine a wider variety of species.

A beginner’s aquarium should be at least 60x30x30 cm in size, with a volume of 54 liters of water, if you want to keep fish in it (smaller tanks and nano-aquariums are also suitable for shrimp and snails). However, you can also easily start with a larger tank that’s 100 cm long. Such large tanks can also be used very effectively as room dividers.

In addition to the tank itself, basic equipment includes lighting, an internal or external filter, and a heater. A cabinet for your aquarium is a good addition, especially if it’s larger. That’s because 200 or 300 liters of water is very heavy, and a standard living room cabinet might not be able to support that weight. At the same time, base cabinets can stylishly conceal the aquarium equipment and serve as storage for accessories such as food and cleaning supplies. Another difference is how the lighting is mounted: You can integrate it into a lid or set up an open aquarium where the lighting hangs freely from above or is attached to the side panel using a bracket. Open aquariums are becoming increasingly popular because they offer more design freedom—for example, a decorative driftwood can protrude from the water’s surface, or plants can continue to grow above the waterline. However, they require more maintenance, and you’ll need to monitor water parameters more closely, as significantly more water evaporates. Fish that like to jump or curious cats are a good reason to choose an aquarium with a lid.

Some fish species and the tank types they prefer:

• Labyrinth fish and catfish prefer tanks with a large floor area.
• Tetras and other schooling fish thrive in spacious “racing tanks” where they have plenty of room to swim.
• Angelfish prefer tall tanks.

The Right Location for Your Aquarium

It’s very important to choose the right location when setting up your new aquarium. Not only should aesthetic considerations play a role, but practical ones as well. Most importantly: Can the cabinet and the floor of the room support the weight of the aquarium? And is there enough space for the filter system and the lid where the aquarium is meant to be a focal point? Remember that you’ll need to clean your aquarium regularly and will need room to move around. Most important for the inhabitants of your underwater world: The aquarium must be protected from direct sunlight. The light doesn’t bother the fish, but unwanted algae will literally explode if they get enough sunlight.

Criteria for the ideal location:

• no direct sunlight
• not directly above a heater or near a stove
• easily visible, but with a closed back panel
• not too far from a water supply (hoses are a maximum of 15 m long)
• close to a power outlet
• Sturdy base and floor (!)

Aquarium Equipment at a Glance

Your aquarium needs a minimum set of equipment to ensure its inhabitants can live in a species-appropriate environment—and to let you enjoy your hobby without constantly having to deal with rampant algae, dirt, and diseases. In our online store, you’ll find the full range of basic aquarium equipment. Let’s briefly go over the essentials.

Aquarium Equipment

Even a beginner’s aquarium needs basic equipment, including a filter, heater, and lighting. Convenient aquarium kits include everything you need to get started in one package. It’s also important for setting up and designing your aquarium to choose the right substrate and the right plants—and to make sure the tank isn’t too small.

The basic equipment for an aquarist consists of the aquarium with lighting (which is usually built into the lid), a filter with a pump, and a heater. Plug-and-play kits include everything you need to get started with your aquarium in one package. Make sure your lighting can be controlled by a timer, the filter can run continuously, and the heater is equipped with a thermostat to ensure a consistent temperature. Most ornamental fish prefer water temperatures between 24 and 26° C—the colder the water they can tolerate, the easier it is to get started.  

Checklist: What equipment do you need for an aquarium?

Filter
The filter is the heart of every aquarium: it ensures that water parameters in the ecosystem remain consistently balanced. Its pump replaces the natural flow of water, and the various filter media keep it clean. Without a filter, impurities and germs quickly accumulate, and your aquarium will turn into a foul-smelling mess—so the filter must run continuously. An effective filter completely circulates the water in the aquarium about twice an hour, simulating a current that allows the fish to live in a species-appropriate environment.
The filter setup in freshwater tanks is always the same: it consists of a biological, a mechanical, and a chemical component. Microorganisms and bacteria filter harmful substances out of the aquarium water; special chemical filter media maintain the water’s pH level and prevent odors; and the mechanical filter removes suspended particles. To ensure that the biological filter component, in particular, can function effectively, it must be large enough. By initially “seeding” the filter with a single dose of bacteria, you give the filter substrate the go-ahead. After that, the filter should run for a while before it becomes fully functional and you can add the fish and plants. To avoid destroying the beneficial microorganisms, you should clean the filter only occasionally and with care.

To start with, an internal filter is sufficient for your aquarium, especially if it’s on the smaller side. You can attach the filter to the edge using suction cups or hide it at the bottom, for example behind a rock. However, the larger the tank—and thus the filter volume—the more practical an external filter becomes, as it requires more and more space. It’s best to house the system in the aquarium cabinet, even if this makes cleaning and maintenance a bit more involved. On the other hand, this allows you to install additional equipment, such as a UV sterilizer, between the hoses later on. These external filter tanks are also called sump tanks. A compromise between the two types is the backpack filter or hang-on filter, which you attach to the rim of the aquarium.

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Heater
Most ornamental fish come from warmer regions and are accustomed to water temperatures between 24 and 30° Celsius. To ensure they feel comfortable, you must provide them with the appropriate temperature in the aquarium. This is where a heater or heating rod comes in, which compensates for temperature fluctuations—because if the heat goes off in your home at night, the aquarium will also cool down. Heating rods in the aquarium have a thermostat that automatically turns them on and off, and must therefore be permanently connected to the power supply.

Heating rods are secured inside the aquarium with suction cups and heat the water around them; for even heat distribution, you should therefore place them close to the filter. Other models are mounted on the outside of the aquarium as part of the filter. There are also bottom heaters that work similarly to the underfloor heating in your home. If the room gets quite warm in the summer, you can turn off the heater. An additional thermometer is a good idea to prevent your aquarium from getting too warm—outdated lighting can also contribute to this.

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Lighting
To be able to see your plants and fish at all—and to give them enough light to thrive—you’ll need artificial lighting for your aquarium. In most aquariums, this lighting is housed in the lid, but open-top aquariums are also an option—in this case, you can either mount the lighting on the side or let it hang freely from above. Sunlight is insufficient in our latitudes and also provides algae and other organisms with an opportunity to proliferate. The lighting should be on for ten to twelve hours a day to simulate a regular day-night cycle; this is best managed using a timer.

Whereas fluorescent tubes were once common, modern aquarium lighting uses energy-efficient LED technology. Although these lights are more expensive to purchase, they last significantly longer and consume less energy. Don’t worry: The new LEDs provide enough light intensity to enable aquatic plants to photosynthesize. Starter kits for aquariums include simple LEDs that emit warm white or cool white light. Your tropical fish will look even more beautiful with color-enhancing lights that better highlight red and blue tones. 

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The Back Wall of the Aquarium

If one side of your aquarium is against a room wall or a cabinet wall, there’s nothing to see there except the white wallpaper or the filter system. It looks much nicer if you have a background image there that visually expands the aquarium or at least provides a lifelike finish. As a feature wall or back wall, you can attach three-dimensional wood or rock replicas, green back walls made of moss, or even colorful back wall films with exotic reef motifs. Even a simple dark blue or black can create a nice contrast, while semi-transparent frosted glass films create a beautiful sense of depth. The back panels are attached inside the tank, while you stick the film to the outside of the glass pane.

Aquarium Substrate

The substrate (also called “soil”) is, so to speak, the foundation of your aquarium. What you use depends on the plants you want to grow, as well as the type of fish and other inhabitants. The bottom layer is always the same: it consists of a nutrient-rich substrate for the plant roots. As a beginner, you should choose gravel for the second layer, which you should spread to a depth of 2 to 4 cm. Fine gravel with rounded grains that are at least 2 mm in size provides support for the plants and protects bottom-dwelling fish—which like to burrow in the gravel—from injury. Gravel is available in all colors these days, but you’re not doing your fish any favors with unnatural red or blue hues. For aquariums with very dense planting (known as aquascaping), you’ll take the opposite approach: First, shape the substrate with gravel or lava rock to create as varied a topography as possible; then apply a special aquascaping substrate on which the plants will take root.

For a small aquarium measuring 60x30x30 cm, you’ll need 8 to 10 kg of gravel; if you choose sand, you’ll need a bit more. However, sand tends to get dirty more quickly and, more importantly, to compact; this can lead to areas of decay that are no longer adequately aerated. Certain fish species, such as discus, absolutely require sand, while others find it easier to eat food on a flatter substrate.

By the way, you can also set up an aquarium without substrate. This trend from Japan is called Iwagumi and may contain only rocks, one plant species, and one fish species. In general, however, substrate is quite useful and absolutely necessary for species-appropriate fish care.

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Hardscape: Roots & Rocks for the Aquarium

Once the substrate is in place, it’s time to design your underwater landscape. In the aquarium hobby, “hardscape” refers to all solid components of the interior design—such as rocks and stones, coral fragments, driftwood, etc. Your choices depend, on the one hand, on the needs and natural habitat of the fish you want to keep; and, on the other hand, of course, on your personal taste. Before making a purchase, research the living conditions of your fish and base your selection on that information. You can also create a three-dimensional background wall using rocks or wood to make your aquarium more lively and provide the fish with something to explore. Specialty stores sell pre-cut back panels for this purpose, which you can easily assemble from several pieces and attach directly to the tank using aquarium silicone. Make sure they’re as flat as possible so they don’t take up too much space.

These materials are well-suited for use in an aquarium, whether as decoration or as a textured background:

Aquarium Setup

Decorations & Other Decorating Ideas for the Aquarium

In general, there are two main types of materials suitable for aquarium decoration: stone and wood. Both are durable underwater (if the right types are chosen) and do not harm the fish—some aquarium inhabitants even depend on them. For example, shrimp and crayfish like bogwood, which they gnaw on, and also benefit from the biofilm that forms on these objects. Epiphytic plants and mosses also need wood to attach to.
Whatever you decide to use: artificial rocks, decorative stones, or gnarled driftwood should always be thoroughly cleaned before you add them to the tank. It’s not recommended to place roots found in a stream into the aquarium; the risk of contamination from unknown organisms is too high. Even stones can, under certain circumstances, leach minerals and environmental toxins that can be very harmful to your fish; it’s therefore best to use decorations from a specialty store. Another group of materials includes plastics such as silicone or synthetic resin (polyresin), which are used to make everything from whimsical little treasure chests and underwater houses to deceptively realistic-looking corals and reef rocks—the latter being an ecologically sound idea, since coral reefs worldwide are threatened and urgently need to be preserved. In addition to lifelike decorations, there is a huge range of artificial decorative elements, from well-known cartoon characters to mermaid castles and funny floating divers. All of this is—and remains—a matter of personal taste, as long as the fish cannot injure themselves on the objects, get stuck in them, or be startled by their movements or light reflections.

Aquarium Setup

Softscape: Plants for the Aquarium

Hardscaping is followed by softscaping: adding aquatic plants. Take your time with both steps and don’t be afraid to try out and discard ideas. To protect the plants’ delicate roots and prevent them from drying out, the “hardscape” should be in place before you begin softscaping.

Without beautiful plants, an aquarium looks bare and lifeless. The greenery of the plants often brings out the true brilliance of the fish’s colors. In addition to their visual appeal, plants in the aquarium also serve important functions for the ecosystem: They provide the aquatic inhabitants with hiding places and resting spots, as well as spawning grounds, entertainment, and food. Furthermore, their roots filter suspended particles from the water and produce oxygen, thereby ensuring good water quality. When the ecosystem is in balance, algae and other pests have fewer opportunities to spread.

To ensure that aquarium plants can reach their full potential, you need to choose them carefully, adapt them to the size of the aquarium and the types of its inhabitants, and also know in which area of the tank the various aquatic plants thrive best. If you’re not careful here and combine the wrong plant species, your aquarium can quickly become overgrown or look permanently bare. As a rule of thumb, you should make up a little more than half of the plant cover with fast-growing species to maintain water quality. However, the plants shouldn’t be allowed to grow too large, so they don’t block the light from reaching the other inhabitants. Some plants, such as Cuban pearlwort, are very sensitive. You can help them grow by using a CO2 system.

Water Additives & Water Care for the Aquarium

Water is the lifeblood of the aquarium—not only for the fish and other animals, but also for the plants and microorganisms that are just as important to the ecosystem. Good, consistent water quality in the aquarium is therefore essential. Fortunately, the aquarium’s inhabitants help you maintain it. Nevertheless, it’s very important that you always keep an eye on the water parameters—because you can’t always tell with the naked eye in time that something is wrong. Above all, you need to know the specific water quality requirements of the fish species you’ve chosen—before you fill the tank with water. You have two options here:

1. Test the quality of your tap water and then decide which fish and aquatic plants will thrive in it.
2. Test the quality of your tap water, then check the needs of the fish species you want, and finally treat the water so that it meets their needs.

Both options are perfectly valid, although the second naturally requires more preparation and monitoring.

Water
Tests You can find simple water tests in our shop that provide information on the most important water parameters. These provide information on the pH level, water hardness, and the levels of various trace elements and minerals, as well as data on metabolic toxins such as ammonium and nitrite, which can build up over time and pose a real danger to the fish.

For beginners, it’s not at all easy to tell whether the water in the aquarium is of the right quality. If the water turns green with algae, aquatic plants develop pale spots, or if the fish are gasping for air at the surface, it’s almost too late to save anything. That’s why it’s a good idea to keep an eye on the water parameters right from the start.

You should check these water parameters regularly:

When choosing water tests, opt for drop tests rather than strip tests, as they provide more accurate results. Since tests often vary significantly from brand to brand, it’s safer to stick with the same manufacturer.

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Water conditioners, filter bacteria, and plant fertilizers
Aquarium plants have very different requirements in terms of light, nutrient supply, and their environment. They all need sufficient light for photosynthesis. In addition to carbon dioxide, aquatic plants also need a balanced ratio of nutrients such as phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and sulfur. The best way to provide these is through a slow-release fertilizer that nourishes the roots, as well as through regular applications of liquid fertilizer to adequately nourish the plants’ leaves and stems. When adding plant fertilizer to your tank, you must again monitor how this affects water quality.

Partial Water Changes
Part of aquarium maintenance involves changing the water at regular intervals. This is the only way to introduce new minerals into the water and prevent too many pollutants from accumulating. However, it’s very important that you never replace all of the water at once. After all, the ecosystem consisting of fish, plants, substrate, and water has become so well-balanced that it now contains exactly the microorganisms and bacteria necessary to maintain the natural equilibrium. If you were to change all the water at once, it would be very harmful to both the plants and the fish, and they could die.

When and how often you need to perform a partial water change depends on your specific aquarium; the more fish you have, the more frequently you’ll need to take action. Carefully monitor the water quality and add fresh water as soon as it changes. This will be necessary at least every three weeks. Rule of thumb: The less often you change the water, the more fresh water you’ll need to add. In addition, you should vacuum up any debris that has settled on the bottom about once a month to prevent rot, and rinse out the filter.

Cleaning
Supplies You can find tools and supplies for cleaning your aquarium in our shop. Handy items include, for example, a fish-catching cup (which is gentler on the fish than a net or landing net), a gravel vacuum for daily cleaning, plant tweezers and aquarium scissors for planting and trimming aquatic plants, as well as magnetic glass cleaners that let you remove algae from the glass panes without getting your hands wet.
You don’t need a huge assortment of accessories, but there are a few tools that will make your work much easier. They’ll keep your aquarium looking brand-new every day.
Algae in the Aquarium

Setting Up and Decorating an Aquarium – A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

You’ve bought your new aquarium along with all the necessary equipment, chosen the right spot in your home, and are now ready to set up and design the tank. In principle, there are no limits to your creativity—but you still need to follow a few basic rules to ensure that the inhabitants of your aquarium feel comfortable, can live in a way appropriate to their species, and that you can enjoy them for a long time to come. Given the multitude of factors to consider, newcomers to the hobby are often unsure how to properly set up an aquarium. That’s why we’ve created a step-by-step guide to help you get started—so nothing should go wrong as you embark on your new hobby.

1. Choose
   a Location for the Aquarium The first step is the most important: Set up the aquarium in its desired location. Whether you choose a sturdy cabinet or a shelf that’s already part of your furniture, or whether you buy a special aquarium stand, is up to you. The only important thing is that the base can reliably support the weight of the filled aquarium. So calculate in advance how many liters of water your tank holds and how many kilograms that corresponds to, and check that against the manufacturer’s specifications for your cabinet!
2. Setting Up the Aquarium
   As a reminder: The volume of a rectangular tank is calculated as length × width × height (the water level is about 2 cm lower than the top edge of the tank). We can ignore the volume and weight of the tank decorations; the number of liters of water you get is roughly equal to the number of kilograms your stand must support—and the hardwood floor beneath it as well! To prevent the cabinet’s legs from sinking into soft laminate or plastic flooring, you can slide piano mats underneath them.
   An object weighing several hundred kilograms—one that also sways back and forth—is virtually impossible to move around. So you must be absolutely certain that the chosen location is the right one as soon as you fill your aquarium with water.
   
   Pro Tip

   Place a thin rubber mat or a styrofoam sheet under your aquarium. This protects the glass and the cabinet underneath, provides thermal insulation, evens out minor unevenness, and prevents vibrations in the aquarium—such as those caused by passing traffic outside.

3. Adding
   Substrate Once the aquarium is in place, you can continue: Now add the desired substrate. We’ve already described above what to consider when choosing the type and amount of substrate. Whether you add a thin layer of substrate beneath the gravel layer or instead mix the gravel with an aquarium substrate fertilizer is up to you. A convenient alternative is fertilizer pellets, which you can place at intervals within the gravel. One thing applies to every option: Give the substrate a few days to settle and develop a population of bacteria and microorganisms. Gravel must also be thoroughly rinsed before adding it to the aquarium. Only when the rinse water remains clear should you add the gravel to your tank. 
   Layer the substrate to a depth of about 4 cm; the exact depth, just like the size of the grains, depends on the type of fish in your aquarium.
   On the substrate—which you can let slope slightly toward the back for a cool 3D effect—you’ll now place the decorations, known as the “hardscape.” This includes both solid back walls installed inside the tank and individual rocks or stones, driftwood, and artificial caves.
4. Installing
   Aquarium Equipment Once the aquarium is set up, you can install the necessary components that should remain hidden: the filter and heater, as well as any other technical equipment. You can read above about which filter is right for your aquarium and what to consider when choosing the appropriate heater. Once the hardscape has been placed in the aquarium, both devices can now be installed as discreetly as possible.
   Internal filters are usually attached to the back wall at the bottom using suction cups or hung over the edge as a backpack filter. Since the filter and its pump create a natural-looking current, you should place it as low as possible. The heater should be placed not far from it and can be positioned either vertically or horizontally; the main thing is that it is completely submerged in water. For small aquariums with limited space, or conversely for very large tanks that require high circulation and heating capacity, an external filter is recommended instead—you can combine it with a pre-connected heater. For fish that prefer warmer conditions, you can also use a substrate heater, which you can either place under the aquarium as a heating mat or, similar to traditional underfloor heating, lay as a heating cable directly in the substrate. To ensure that the heating power maintains a consistent water temperature, you should use a thermostat. It’s also a good idea to install a thermometer in the aquarium that you can easily see from the outside.
   Note: Since a filter provides not only mechanical and chemical filtration but also biological filtration, it requires a certain “break-in period.” After filling the tank with water, you should wait at least a few days to give the filter a chance to establish a colony of microorganisms and bacteria—only then will it ultimately provide the desired filtration performance. The brown sludge that forms in the filter after a while isn’t disgusting dirt, but exactly the filter sludge we want in a functioning filter. Thoroughly cleaning the filter would be completely counterproductive.
5. Adding
   Hardscape The choice of solid decorative objects—known as “hardscape”—is essentially up to your preferences and imagination. Of course, you shouldn’t neglect the needs of your aquarium inhabitants either. Many fish appreciate places to retreat and hide, and some need quiet areas for spawning. Be careful not to use too many decorations, and use only stones and wood that are absolutely clean. While plastic decorations and plants are guaranteed to be free of contaminants and can sometimes look deceptively real, they may release microplastics and toxic substances into the water over time, making your fish sick. 
   If you want to collect rocks or driftwood from the wild rather than buying them from an aquarium store, you need to be careful: limestone, dolomite, or marble are not suitable, as they slowly dissolve in water. Coniferous woods and wood from shrubs, which contain too much tannic acid, are just as unsuitable. Even untreated driftwood, no matter how well you soak it, will rot in the aquarium sooner or later. The only suitable option is bog driftwood, which has been buried in a bog, sealed off from the air, for centuries. Any metal objects are strictly off-limits—for obvious reasons.
   The hardscape also includes a suitable background; which you can affix to the outside at a low cost or install on the inside with a 3D effect. A background that resembles a rock face, a reef, or even a wooden shipwreck provides the fish with a species-appropriate habitat and serves as a beautiful focal point for you.
6. 
   Softscape: Adding
   Plants We’ve already described in detail above how to select and arrange aquatic plants for your aquarium. Unlike with decorations, you don’t have to skimp on plants in the aquarium—so feel free to choose fast-growing species, such as water star, sword plant, or parrot leaf. The more plants growing in your aquarium, the faster an ecological balance will be established in the tank.
   Larger aquarium plants are usually sold in mesh pots, where they grow on rockwool. You should remove this rockwool, as well as the pot itself, since sooner or later it will stick out of the gravel and look unsightly. Only for aquatic plants known to be prone to overgrowth should you use the mesh pot to contain the roots. Wilted or damaged leaves should be removed before planting. You should also trim roots that are too long to about 4 cm with sharp scissors before carefully placing the plant in a small indentation in the substrate. Never bury parts of the leaves in the substrate, so they don’t rot. You can secure epiphytic plants—those meant to grow on rocks or roots—with modern underwater silicone adhesive or tie them in place with thin binding wire or fishing line. When planting, work from front to back, gradually adding more water as you go. Finally, add floating plants, which float on the water’s surface and do not form any adhesive roots. Once all the plants are in place, fill the aquarium completely; the water should be about 2 cm below the rim to prevent it from spilling over when you reach into the tank. Now give your plants a settling-in period of about a week, during which they can form new roots and adjust to the nutrients in the water. To promote better growth, you can then (!) give the plants a dose of fertilizer; slow-release fertilizer in the form of fertilizer capsules is particularly well-suited here, as they release their nutrients gradually over a period of two to three months.
   About plant fertilizer
7. Filling
   with Water Once the permanent setup is complete, you can begin to slowly fill your aquarium with water—but only to about one-third full at first. To avoid disturbing the gravel too much, you shouldn’t pour the water in forcefully; instead, either let it run gently down the glass wall from a hose or pour it onto a plate that you place on the substrate. There is no
   consensus among aquarists on whether it’s better to add the aquatic plants first and then fill the tank with water, or to do it the other way around. It’s important that the plants don’t dry out while you’re placing them; if there’s no water in the tank yet, you’ll need to mist your aquatic plants regularly with a spray bottle. Once the plants can float a little in the shallow water, you’ll get a good idea of how the tank will look later—this is especially a good idea for beginner aquarists who don’t have much experience yet.
8. Dosing
   Water Conditioner If the quality of your tap water doesn’t meet the needs of your aquarium inhabitants, you’ll need to use a water conditioner. First, pour the fresh tap water for your aquarium into a clean bucket. Then add an aquarium starter containing bacteria that break down nitrites, chlorine, and ammonium in the water. Wait at least 24 hours before adding the water to the aquarium. Once in the aquarium, with the filter running, the water must stabilize for 1.5 to 2 weeks before you add the fish. This initial phase is important so that a first colony of filter bacteria can establish itself in the water filter. But don’t wait much longer, or the microorganisms will die off due to a lack of nutrients.
   During the first few months, keep taking notes on the water parameters so you can get a feel for how water quality changes when you feed your fish, clean the aquarium, or fertilize the plants.
9. Cycling Phase
   After all this preparation, you’ll finally want to “get your aquarium up and running”—that is, add the fish you’ve selected. The more patience you can muster during this step, the better! Once the aquarium is stocked with plants and filled with water, you’ll need to wait 1.5 to 2 weeks—but no longer. This break-in period is necessary so that the ecosystem in the tank can stabilize and a bacterial mat can grow in the filter, which can effectively filter out the fish’s nitrogen-containing waste. If the filter isn’t able to do this at first, the fish won’t be doing well. You can shorten the waiting period slightly if you already have filter sludge from another aquarium and add a little of it to the water to help bacteria form more quickly.
10. Adding
    FishThe time has finally come—your fish can move in! You’ll usually buy the fish or other aquatic animals at a pet store and bring them home in a plastic bag filled with water. To avoid stress caused by a sudden change in water temperature and water quality, the fish should be allowed to acclimate slowly to their new home: To do this, first place the filled plastic bag on the water’s surface and then, every few minutes, drizzle a few spoonfuls of water from your tank into the bag. Once the fish have acclimated to the new water, carefully remove them from the bag with a net and transfer them to the aquarium. You should pour out the old water from the plastic bag, as it may contain pathogens from the pet store. It’s best to do this entire process with the lights off to avoid stressing the fish more than necessary. Your new arrivals shouldn’t be exposed to light or fed until the next day.
    You don’t have to introduce all the inhabitants of your aquarium at once. Since most fish sold in pet stores are juveniles, your fish will almost certainly continue to grow. If you’re new to this, it’s best to start with fewer fish and see how large they grow. Schooling fish like guppies are happy in groups of five, whereas neon tetras need the security of a school of at least 10 to 20 fish. To start out, pair fish like labyrinth fish or a “cleaning crew” of catfish are also a good idea, as they’ll help keep your aquarium clean. 
    
    Pro Tip

    If you’ve bought new fish and want to add them to an aquarium that’s already inhabited, you should set up a “quarantine station” for them in a second, smaller tank. This way, you can determine whether they’ve brought any diseases from the pet store before they spread them to the other fish.

     

Top 4 Setup Examples & Design Ideas for Aquariums